The Five Things You Need To Start Keeping Chickens

The idea of keeping chickens can seem daunting to people who've never done it. On one hand, chickens are some super tough creatures. It makes sense that share DNA with the mighty T-Rex. At the same time, they're extremely vulnerable to predators, certain illnesses and parasites. To keep chickens successfully, you need to know everything that is required for them to thrive, and to live long and healthy lives. Hopefully this guide will simplify the sea information that is out there, and you'll have a clear idea of where to start.

1. Coop

Chickens need shelter, not only to keep warm but to keep safe from predators. You can either build one yourself or purchase one. There are some small, easy starter coops out there for backyard keepers such as the Eglu by Omelet. There are also a number of larger wood coops on the market for a pretty penny. If you purchase a used coop, make sure you sanitize it. Pressure wash it and spray it with a poultry mite spray before use. If you choose to build, a quick google search for DIY chicken coop plans will provide tons of options.

There are a few important factors to look for when considering a coop or coop design.

• What kind of wood is it? Cedar is my favorite because mites dislike it and it doesn't rot for a very, very long time. You can leave cedar raw and it will not rot for many years.

• Does it have enough space for the amount of chickens I will have? 4 feet of coop space per bird is the a good rule of thumb, and twice that much for the outdoor run.

• Does it have roosting bars? Chickens love to perch at night, so roosting bars is a must. They should be secure and solid, not wobbly or able to be knocked down.

• How are the nesting boxes? Are there enough for the amount of hens you will have? If you don't have enough nesting boxes, it can become crowded and chickens will seek another place to lay. The boxes should have solid bottoms, 3 walls for a safe, private space, and an easy access door for you to collect eggs.

• Does it have ample ventilation? Chickens have very sensitive respiratory systems so they need windows that can be opened. Make sure there is a wire screen in the window frame to keep them safe when windows are open. If you live in an area that reaches freezing temperatures, consider adding a ventilation system in the ceiling of your coop if it's large enough, and keep the windows closed at night. Or, insulate every inch of the coop walls except the windows in the winter.

• What kind of door latch does it have? Consider raccoons and their dexterity skills. If a raccoon could open it, it's not safe. Here are two examples of something a raccoon would be able to open:

Unsafe and too easy to open

Add a simple carabiner to instantly make these latches predator proof

2. Proper predator proofing

The coop is not the only predator proofing you'll need. You also need a run with proper fencing and roofing. Chicken wire is not strong enough, I recommend welded wire or hardware cloth. Many people build covered runs with beams, welded wire or hardware cloth, and a corrugated roof. Others use temporary/moveable electric fencing, especially those who rotate pastures. Everyone has a different situation and what works for some may not work for others.

Chicken Wire

Hardware Cloth

Welded Wire

Chicken Wire Hardware Cloth Welded Wire

My personal method? I have only one pasture and no covered run. I use welded wire fencing all around the pasture, 6 feet high (not just for predators but because chickens CAN and WILL get over a fence that is under 6 feet tall) and buried one foot into the ground. This way predators that dig will not typically get through. The run is the second layer of protection, with more welded wire and roofed with bird netting. Bird netting is not tough if something really tried to rip through it, but it's been effective at deterring most creatures. Things get easily tangled in it and tend to give up. Since I already have the strong fencing around the pasture, I don't see many animals get to the bird netting. The netting is also highly effective at keeping the chickens in which is a challenge. Free range birds are stubborn and will spend an entire day trying to figure out how to escape! Keep in mind that if they do escape, they don't run far away and go on some crazy adventure like a dog or cat. They are just curious to see what bugs and plants they can find on the other side of the fence. They will stay nearby, but may be a nuisance for you to catch.

The second part of my method is a dog. I can't express enough how valuable it is to have a flock guardian. This is not to say you can't have chickens without a dog! It's just that if you don't, you need to be extra diligent about predator proofing. Before I had my dog I lost several chickens to predators. It was so frustrating, maddening and devastating. It's part of the reason I decided to adopt her that year, I'd had enough. She has chased away countless foxes, coyotes, raccoons, weasels, hawks and neighbor's dogs from potentially destroying my flock. She was raised with the chickens and bonded with them from a young age, naturally becoming in tune to their language. She understands when they're in distress and will alert me if she's inside to let her out. I'll elaborate much more on how to have an effective flock guardian in a later article.

3. Food

Chickens require a variety of nutrients which they get from grains, grasses, legumes, and insects. You need a feed that provides the appropriate amounts of protein, calcium, and other essential nutrients for laying hens. Hens require a lot of calcium to aid in their egg shell production, so select a layer feed for any laying pullets or hens. Layer feed is a complete package, containing the exact amounts of nutrients required. Select a layer feed that contains 16% protein and 3% calcium. Deeper dives into my recommendations for the best feeds are coming soon.

Some people choose to blend different types of food together to create their own mix with scratch grains. If you do this, make sure you are providing supplemental oyster shells for the required amounts of calcium. You can leave them out in a dish free choice and the hens will eat them as needed. Going this route can be beneficial if you have a mix of age groups and genders in your flock who might not need the extra calcium.

4. Bedding

It's important to have bedding in nesting areas. Chickens won't lay eggs on hard surfaces, so provide something soft and comfortable like wood shavings, straw or nesting pads. I don't recommend using pine because there are some studies indicating that some of the terpenes pine contains can cause respiratory disease in chickens. Cedar is also not a good choice for chickens in the form of shavings. It works great as a material for the coop construction itself, however in shaving form the scent is too overwhelming for them and sometimes toxic. We use shavings that are discarded from a cabinet shop, usually walnut, maple or basswood. There are other kinds of shavings you can get from your local feed store or order online, such as this amazing hemp bedding from American Hemp. Straw is absorbent and easy to find, but bear in mind that it can make a good home for mites to hide in. Occasionally when you buy straw from the feed store it already has mites in it. So, if you decide to use straw, be diligent on parasite prevention, covered in the next section.

5. Parasite prevention and treatment

Chickens are vulnerable to a myriad of parasites, so it is essential to be prepared for an infestation before it happens. I recommend keeping dewormers and Ivermectin on hand at all times. Infestations can get out of hand quickly, even before you see signs of it.

The best way to get rid of parasites is to prevent them in the first place, so employ these natural ways of preventing mites, worms and bacteria to lessen your chances of having to treat your flock.

• Add 2 capfuls of apple cider vinegar per gallon of your chickens' drinking water seasonally. It prevents coccidiosis, e.coli and salmonella, while adding other benefits to their gut health.

• Feed them oregano. You can sprinkle it dry into their dust bathing areas, they love to peck around and find goodies while bathing. If you grow it, give them fresh sprigs. Oregano has antibiotic and anti-inflammatory properties and improves the chicken's immune system.

• Feed them red pepper flakes. Don't worry, chickens can't taste spicy. Red pepper contains capsaicin which helps prevent bacteria and worm infestations. It's anti-microbial and anti-viral, and they love to eat it.

• Use diatomaceous earth in dust bathing areas and in the coop, rubbing it into cracks and crevices. It is a natural powder that is very sharp on the microscopic level and therefore can cut through the bodies of very small insects like mites. Use it at least seasonally as a preventative, and certainly if you see any mite infestation.

5. Avian veterinarian

Do your research and find a good avian vet in your area. You must know where to go in case of an emergency. If there isn't one near your home, at least have a phone number for one you can call for advice when necessary. Certain illnesses and bacterial infections can take hold of a chicken extremely quickly and a good veterinarian is crucial when such things occur. You should also know which 24-hour emergency vets are in the area, as many of them will have a vet on staff that is at least somewhat experienced with birds, or can stabilize your chicken until it can be transferred to an avian vet.